Sidecut radius on professional skis. How to choose alpine skis

Success in skiing directly depends on the proper selection of equipment. Putting on what you had and flying from the mountains is not our method! At the very least, it is not safe and you are unlikely to get pleasure from such skating.

3 characteristics on which the quality of skiing depends:

1. Geometry or size - the width of the skis at three points: tip, heel and waist, as well as the radius of the side cut formed by them.
2. Profile and type of deflection.
3. Ski length.

In this article we will look at the nuances of selecting sizes and types of deflections in alpine skis. These two characteristics directly affect the comfort of edge cutting, stability when descending and confident control at high speeds.

Traditionally, ski equipment is classified according to skill level: children's, adult beginners, amateurs, advanced and experts. But by and large, the entire choice in this category comes down to two components:

How do you want to ride? Slow or fast, with aggressive carving technique (sharp turns) or not.
Where do you want to ride? On prepared, groomed trails with cleared snow or off-piste, through virgin snow and snowdrifts.

Let's look at each indicator to understand which skis you should choose and what to focus on in general.

Types of alpine skiing by type of ride

• Racing is the general name for downhill skis. This name combines the carving style of riding. Almost all amateurs and experts prefer either this category or All-mountain.
• Freeride - riding off-prepared trails. This includes hilly terrain, virgin soil with deep snow. They are also called powder skis and the main distinguishing feature is the waist width of 115 cm.
• Freestyle - skis for stunt riding and performing acrobatic elements in parks. You can also come across the names park or pipe, meaning skiing in special parks.
• All-mountain, Allround - universal models, ideal for beginners.

Alpine skiing has two sides of the same coin. If you prefer speed, then you need skis of one design, and if you prefer maneuverable skiing with aggressive carving technique (cutting arcs), then a completely different one.

Universal skis (All-mountain), which we advise all beginner skiers, are not suitable for experienced people who want to ski in different conditions. Every riding style needs its own pair of skis!

In the article, we try to duplicate all Russian-language terms in English, because mountain ski markings are usually done in English and it will be easier for you to navigate this way. Because there are so many sites in RuNet, there are so many variations of terms.

How to choose the size of alpine skis (geometry)

Based on the shape of the skis, we can predict in advance how they will behave on the slope.

When choosing a size, we are guided by three characteristics - width of nose, waist and heel, are always measured in millimeters (see photo on the left). These three meanings together form , responsible for making turns and cutting arcs.

In the screenshot on the left, the radius is displayed in meters. This is an average indicator, which also depends on the length of the ski. One model with the same width, but with a different size will have a different side radius.

The larger the radius of the sidecut, the better the skis take turns and make them faster:

Skis with a short radius, say 14-16 meters, will turn quite quickly. But 22 meters will be less maneuverable, but will be able to develop greater speed, not least because of the width of the waist.

Nose (Tip): this point is responsible for the beginning of the ski turn. A wider nose (approximately 120mm and above) floats easier on soft snow and is a good option for unprepared runs.

Heel (tail): The rear of the ski helps with cornering. Wide heels are popular among experienced skiers. When cutting a fast turn, the wider tail resists sideslip and maintains speed. Beginners should not choose a wide heel; they still will not be able to fully appreciate all the possibilities.

Waist Width (Waist): an equally important indicator and is responsible for turns and behavior at speed. I would even say that it is the relationship of all three points that is important, and not just one.

With a narrow waist, the skis take turns well and cut arcs easily. Suitable for prepared slopes. With a wide waist, skis maintain speed more stable and behave better on unprepared slopes, virgin lands, and snowdrifts.

The standard waist width of All-mountain skis, which we recommend for beginners, is 70-80 mm.

Also, almost all have the same side radius, so you can’t go wrong with this specification. But, nevertheless, remember about it and ask a consultant at a sports store about it.

Why All-mountain? After all, a beginner will obviously not engage in freeride outside of prepared trails and descend at high speed with an aggressive riding technique, so it is preferable for him to choose shorter alpine skis, with a universal lateral radius and an average waist width. Such skis will easily enter short arcs; a beginner will be able to quickly master the basics of carving, which is the most common type of skiing.

Profile or camber of alpine skis

Camber is a slight upward bend in the central part of the ski. Traditional deflection, used for many years. The main idea is that under the weight of the skier, the skis bend in the opposite direction, which is why the area of ​​contact with the snow increases.

Camber Provides good speed, and most importantly, stability. Skis with traditional camber are not suitable for freeride and soft snow skiing.

Rocker is an inward bend in the toe, or in the toe and heel. It is also called reverse camber. Bend under the weight of the skier, the nose and torture rise upward. Alpine skis with moderate rocker are ideal for beginners and make carving easier.

Many skis have combined shapes - rocker at the tip and tail, camber in the middle. This is the perfect combination, combining the cornering control of rocker skis and the stability at speed of camber. The cambered midsole provides good handling at speed and in hard snow, while the rockered tip and tail provide excellent powder flotation and easy cornering.

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Look at the diagram below with examples of popular profiles:

As you can see, manufacturers use different combinations of camber and rocker, adapting to the needs of each skier. The percentage of camber is responsible for the style of skiing they are suitable for.

So what to choose for regular skiing at a ski resort?

Answer: no profile can be called bad or good. The camber improves handling and gives control at speed, so in universal models it occupies 85% of the total area, the rocker is allocated 15%. But freeride and powder ones are already equipped with rocker from 20 to 60%. This is understandable; on virgin soil and deep snow you need controllability and maneuverability.

Remember that the percentage of a particular camber in alpine skis is good or bad. The main thing here is the ratio of quantities!

If you also ask yourself this question, then take All-mountain skis!

Alpine skiing for women

Most often they are softer and with fastenings shifted forward, most suitable for the center of gravity of the female body, located lower than the male one.

Universal women's alpine skis with good reviews:

• Salomon CIRA with LITHIUM 10W bindings - have a lateral radius of 13 meters. The price of such a model is from 22 thousand rubles;
• Atomic Vantage X 77 CTI W;
• Fischer My Mtn 80 - the model is suitable for already progressing skiers with active, carving skills.

Video: how to choose alpine skis for beginners in 3 minutes

Translation of a useful informative video from the American company rei.com especially for WayEmpire.

Keep an eye out for discounts

Do not forget that prices for ski equipment have a seasonal spike and it is best to buy them either at the end of the season (March-April) or already during the season. At this time the price can drop up to 50%. The peak of price increases occurs in the fall!

Another great way to save money is to purchase skis from previous seasons. Their prices are often lower, and the technical difference is not so great and is difficult to notice, especially for beginners.

We do not advise beginners to choose alpine skis themselves; it is better to trust the professionals, and generally ride on rental equipment for the first season, try different lengths and geometry, see what type of ride you like, and from the next season choose your first alpine skis.

Answers on questions

Which brand of alpine skis is better?

This question is easy to answer, since the ski market is conservative and new and successful brands rarely appear. Pay attention to: Atomic, Fischer, Leki, Rossignol and Salomon. These brands have been tested by time, skiers and ski cup competitions.

Where is the best place to buy alpine skis?

If you buy in Moscow, then in specialized stores Kant, Sport Marathon, or Sportmaster, only some professional department where there will be qualified specialists who can show and tell a beginner. Or good online stores.
We do not recommend buying used skis, especially after 2-3 seasons of riding.

What time should you start your child skiing?

Ski schools accept children from 4-5 years old. You can, as they say, even from the cradle, but they will start skating at the age of five. And at the age of 7-8 you can already fully engage in sports schools.

Should I choose with or without fastening?

Modern all-mountain skis all come with bindings. You just have to ask the consultant to adjust them to the size of your boots and show you how the mechanism works.

And an important element of equipment is alpine skiing. And the question of choice is especially acute for those who are just planning to master the technique of skiing.

Advice from workers in this area will help you choose the right skis for beginners. Depending on the characteristics and basic parameters of alpine skis, they are selected according to the skill level of the skier.

It is worth noting that alpine skis differ from each other in the shape of the nose, heels, narrowness of the middle part and softness of the products. These quality characteristics give the skis stability with a smooth ride and make them easy to learn and develop technique.

On a note:
Types of alpine skiing
Classification of alpine skiing - the dependence of types of skis on the parameters and characteristics of ski equipment. From the article you will find out what kind of alpine skiing you use and how they differ from other types.

Important characteristics of alpine skis

However, it is important to focus not only on the product model, but also on a number of its technical characteristics:

• Lenght and width
  According to their structural structure, alpine skis differ in length and width.

  · long skis	They have the ability to develop high speed when skiing on a plane; Give greater stability to the position of the body; They reduce the speed of the blade well due to the increased length of the ski edge when descending from the mountains.
  · shorter skis	Lighter in weight, nimble on bumps and more maneuverable in icy conditions; Increases the ability to make more turns on the slopes of small or too narrow slopes; They exert specific pressure on the edge, going deeper into the snow surface.
  · wide skis	Produces stable speed on smooth slopes; They overcome deep snow cover and virgin soil well, which is a huge advantage when riding through the forest on unequipped trails.

Useful article:
Selection of skis by height
How to choose the right skis according to your height? An article about how important a well-chosen ski length is and why. We have given important recommendations that you should follow when choosing ski equipment.

The main problem faced by those wishing to purchase their own ski set is the ability to combine the good characteristics of alpine skis with their level of skiing and versatility for ski slopes of any complexity.

• Rigidity
  The stiffness of alpine skis refers to its ability to flex under the influence of the body weight of the skier. Stiffness is primarily responsible for handling, i.e. how difficult/easy it will be for a skier to handle his skis when skiing on the slopes of a mountain. Hard direction skis with high values ​​of this characteristic are intended more for professional skiers who have impulsiveness and powerful skiing with skillful transfers from turn to turn.

• Vibration damping, flexibility, torsion stability
  Based on the characteristics when choosing alpine skis, you need to know other features such as vibration damping, flexibility and torsional stability.

  · vibration damping	Vibration damping is determined by the behavior of the ski when accelerating at medium or high speed. Most of the vibration absorption increases the accuracy of movement along arched tracks, provides additional stability when passing uneven surfaces, and at the same time the edge cuts well into the ice surface, which thereby gives stability to the skis when skiing at high speeds.
  · flexibility	Flexibility gives springy and elastic bending of the ski under the influence of the weight of the skier.
  · torsion stability	The high-quality assembly of the ski, taking into account resistance to deformation, determines the torsional rigidity of the skier’s stability, and is considered one of the main features. Advantages: Makes it easier to ride at low speeds (automatic tip and heel edging) and simplifies mistakes when skating. Flaws: The low torsional rigidity of the ski holds it somewhat worse on ice.

Recommendations and tips:
How to choose alpine skis?
Here we will tell you and explain in clear language how to choose alpine skis when purchasing. We will point out the important points that you cannot do without when choosing skis for skiing on the slopes.

• Turning Radius and Sidecut
  Turning radius is the main characteristic that determines the ability of a particular ski to turn while walking along the slopes. Larger sidecuts with a reduced radius promote better arcing with controlled speed. Conversely, with a reduced sidecut and increased turning radius, the skis go straighter and add speed when skiing.
  Advantages of skis with deep sidecut and small radius:
  1. Easily fit into turns;
  2. Steadily maintain their trajectory on icy surfaces and steeper slopes.
  Flaws:
  1. On ice, when the edge slides sideways on the ice, they lose stability;
  2. They glide a little worse on uneven terrain and bumps.
  On skis, the radius is usually indicated by the letter R and a number next to the letter.


• Waist Width
  An important characteristic in alpine skiing is the waist width of alpine skis. This indicator determines the behavior of skis when passing through deep snow or ice. Therefore, a narrow waist contributes to the development of high speed when turning edges, easy cornering and increased controllability. The wide waist allows for traversing deeper snow;


• Toe and heel width
  The role of the toe length of alpine skis is also important for ski lovers. The wider the tip of the ski, the more confidently the skier enters the turn. Such skis give an advantage when passing slopes intended for slalom testing. Such a characteristic as the width of the ski heel is also important for lovers of slalom and carving. The wider the heel, the better the arc at the end of the turning maneuver;

• Operating speed range
  The operating speed range is considered satisfactory if the alpine skis make the correct move along the arc. Wide ranges of operating speeds give the skis versatility.

Have a nice ride!
We hope our article was useful to you.

Main characteristics of skis:
— length (size)
- width
— hardness (medium, static/dynamic)
— distribution of stiffness along the length of the ski
— torsional rigidity (torsional rigidity)
— geometry (depth of the side cutout, radius of the side cutout, law (shape) of the side cutout)
— waist width (width of the ski under the boot)
— tip length (distance from the front binding to the tip of the ski)
— vibration characteristic (the ability of a ski to absorb vibrations)
- shock absorption.

What do these characteristics affect?
1. Length
Longer ski:
- more stable at speed (when skiing flat)
- greater moment of inertia - better stabilize the position of the body
— it’s easier to slow down (longer edge length), especially when riding in the mountains
- walk better on virgin soil (deep snow)
Shorter ski:
- easier to turn (more nimble)
— it’s better to ride on short slopes (you’ll have time to make more turns)
- better on ice (more specific pressure on the edge - better penetration into the ice)
- better on hillocks (more nimble)
- lighter in weight.

2. Width
Narrower ski:
- better on ice (at the limit - skate)
- better on hillocks
- more “alive” and agile
- lighter in weight
Wider ski:
- goes better in deep snow/virgin snow
- higher stability at speed (on a flat slope)
- higher stability (confidence)

3. Ski stiffness
Softer ski:
— begins to work correctly (bend in an arc) at lower speeds
- better absorbs uneven terrain
- properly designed soft skis
better grip on ice (when skiing on edges)
- they walk better on virgin soil (soft snow) Stiffer ski:
- more impulse - more powerful skating, powerful transfer from turn to turn
- better grip on ice (with lateral edge slippage)

4. Geometry
The information block and catalogs usually contain the following information:
140 — ski size in cm
110/73/99 — ski measurements in mm: width of tip, waist and heel, respectively
11,7 — radius of the side cut in m.
The last two quantities, that is, measurements and the radius of the side cut, determine the so-called “geometry” of the ski. The radius of the sidecut is measured using a special technique, and it can be used to judge the ability of the ski to carve a turn.

The larger the side cut(smaller sidecut radius), the more the ski tends to go in an arc and, therefore, allows better control of speed when carving.

The smaller the side cutout(the larger the turning radius), the more the ski tends to go straight, therefore, allowing faster skiing.

Skis with a large (deep) sidecut (small sidecut radius):
- easier to turn into
- better grip on ice and on steep slopes (when skiing on edges)
- grip on ice worse (with edge slipping laterally)
- They walk worse on bumps and uneven surfaces.
The smaller the size of the ski, with the same measurements, the more steeply the ski can turn when carving.

5. Waist Width(width of ski under boot)
The narrower the waist, the higher the edge speed (easier to turn) and controllability; the wider, the better the ski performs in deep snow.

6. Sock length(distance from front binding to ski tip):
Longer toe length means better behavior in deep snow, the ski floats better in virgin snow. Shorter toe length means easier and faster turn entry.

Types of modern skis:
— Racing — sports — for participation in competitions, for special slalom, giant slalom, moguls, etc.
— Freeride — skis for skiing off-prepared slopes, mainly in virgin snow (deep fluffy snow), for example, Salomon AK Rocket.
- All Mountain - universal all-terrain (the most universal, for all slopes and snow conditions, for example, Salomon X-Scream.
- Freecarve - for expert skiing mainly on prepared slopes, although in this group we can distinguish the so-called universal carving skis, less sensitive to uneven terrain - for example, Salomon Crossmax.
— Sportscar — for amateur riding at low speeds, mainly on prepared slopes.
- New school freestyle - trick skating and jumping both in the snow park and on regular slopes with varying degrees of training, for example, Salomon Teneighty.
— Supercarv, or Fan-carv, or radical carving - “carving” skating, usually without poles, with a strong fall of the body onto the slope. Due to the extremely deep sidecut, a strong centrifugal force is generated when riding, for example, the Salomon Axecleaver Streetracer series.
— Skiboards, or snowblades, are special carving skis with a length, usually less than 1 m. They are produced with a lightweight fastening without the possibility of automatic operation in the event of a fall, which is permitted by international safety standards, provided that the skis are shorter than 1 meter

There is more than one conventional classification of alpine skiing that has the right to life. Moreover, manufacturers themselves often reshuffle their models from season to season, moving them in catalogs from one category to another. We present a conditional classification from our expert Sergei Garibov, which will help you navigate the types of alpine skis and manufacturers’ catalogs.

Carving skis

A carved turn performed by Fischer pro rider Alexander Gordeev.

Carving (piste) alpine skis- a type of ski designed for skiing on prepared slopes (on piste). Such skis repeat the geometry of sports skis, but they are more comfortable, softer in deflection and not as rigid in torsion, not as “strict” (that is, they “forgive” some mistakes) as sports skis.

Such skis provide the ability to ski in deep arcs, short or wide. Typically, the waist width of a piste ski is in the range of 68-78 mm. Piste skis have a deep sidecut - the turning radius of the ski is from 10 to 19 meters.

What is carving

Theoretically, for a good piste ski, this geometry, together with the correct distribution of the ski’s stiffness, provides it with ease of turning and the ability to pass the entire slope “on the edges”, without the ski slipping sideways. This technique of making a turn (without sliding sideways) is called “carving” and is considered a modern ski technique. It arose along with the advent of carving skis (skis with a deep sidecut) in the second half of the 1990s. As they say now, at the turn of the century there was a “carving revolution” in alpine skiing. When carving skiing, the skier loads both skis more evenly, in contrast to the classical technique with the load in the turn on one ski, external to the turn. When skiing on modern skis, on average, 60% of the load goes on the outer ski in a turn, 40% on the inside.

The transition to carving skis led to several serious consequences:

1. The initial training in skiing techniques has been simplified, and, accordingly, the number of skiers has increased.
2. The average controlled speed of skiers and, in general, the capabilities of skiers on the slope and, accordingly, the pleasure of skiing have increased.
3. The outflow of skiers into snowboarding has decreased (the simultaneous appearance of wide skis and twin tips also played a role here).

Sasha Gordeev carves on freeride (!) skis Fischer Big Stix 122 (size 190 cm, turning radius 20 m).

What are carving skis for?

Carving skis are ideal for initial training in skiing technique. If a person has good physical characteristics, is really determined and wants to learn how to ski, he needs to be helped in his intention by choosing the “right” skis for him. In what sense are they “correct”? In such a way that the skis themselves help him master modern skiing techniques - the technique of a sharp turn, that is, carving.

Piste (carving) skis are well suited for skiing on soft or hard (icy) prepared slopes, but not for skiing on deep or unprepared snow.

For beginners and intermediate skiers, carving skis are usually chosen 10-20 cm shorter than the height of the skier (depending on the weight of the skier, his experience, skiing speed and preferred turning radius). For experienced skiers, for skiing in the mountains in large arcs at high speeds, skis are chosen that are tall or taller by 10-20 cm with a large (15-20 meters) turning radius. On small slopes and frequent turns - short skis (less tall) and with a radius of 10-13 meters.

The fact is that in addition to all the above classifications, ALL skis are divided into three large classes:

1. Skis that carve well carve well.

These are, first of all, race skis, expert piste skis, piste skis for advanced skiers, and sometimes (best) piste skis for intermediate and beginner skiers. That is, these skis are intended for those who love speed on a prepared slope.

1. Skis that perform well with sideslip.

The second class usually includes all skis for beginners, for children, for anyone who wants to ski at low speeds. These skis are designed to control speed by sliding sideways. Most freeride skis, park skis, and most all-mountain skis fall into this class. Freeriders and expert all-mountain skiers who ski at high speeds in difficult snow conditions also need sideslip control to control their speed.

1. The skis are universal in technique, that is, they carve well and at the same time make turns with lateral slipping easily.

The third class includes a small number of the best piste and all-mountain skis and an even smaller number of freeride skis.

All mountain skis

Most skiers want one pair of skis to do everything. This is a normal desire for any “normal” (average) skier, so that during a trip to the mountains on these skis you can ski along the piste, jump over the hills, and, if snow suddenly falls, get out of the piste. I must admit to myself that such skiers — majority. Manufacturers make this most popular class of skis for them.

All-mountain / All-terrain / Allround skis - universal mountain skis. They behave quite well on snowcat-compacted slopes; they also behave well on broken slopes, on soft hillocks and in shallow virgin soil. However, in each of these situations they are significantly inferior to specialized models.

The waist width of all-mountain skis is usually between 78-100 mm. The turning radius of these skis usually varies from 13 to 21 meters. The length of universal skis is usually selected in the range of skier height +/-10 cm. The class of these skis is quite diverse, because everyone interprets the very concept of universality in their own way. For some, behavior on a prepared slope is more important, for others - on hillocks, so it is quite difficult to formulate general properties of all-purpose skis for the class. But I'll try:)

All-mountain ski width

The width of the ski is 78-100 mm - definitely more than that of a ski for prepared slopes, but less than that of a freeride ski. That is, these skis are easier to ski in shallow virgin soil than piste skis, but much more difficult than freeride skis. The more the all-mountain skis are aimed beyond the piste, the wider the waist. I consider a waist of 86-95 mm to be the golden mean for expert all-around skis. With this width, the skis still turn over edge quite easily and quickly, allowing you to carve, and at the same time, this width is quite sufficient for skiing in light alpine powder.

Versatility in technique and side cutout

All-mountain skis should be universal not only in terms of the surface on which you will ski, but also in terms of skiing technique. That is, skiing should be easy to ski not only with modern carving techniques (carved turns), but also with “classics” (turns with side slip, controlled turns, “godil-braking”). For this purpose, progressive sidecut technology is often used, which provides aggressive cornering on hard slopes and forgiving behavior in virgin and broken snow.

Thanks to the progressive sidecut, the ski builders were able to combine aggressive geometry with a wide waist. The standard side cut is a fragment of an arc of a regular circle. In other words, the radius of the sidecut remains the same at any point, from the tip of the ski to its tail. This works well on skis with a narrow waist, but becomes a problem on wide skis, especially on difficult snow.

The progressive sidecut, in turn, has a more complex shape - its radius increases as you move from the tip of the ski to its tail. As a result, the reduced front sidecut radius allows for confident, quick turn-in on hard groomed slopes, while the increased rear sidecut radius provides a more forgiving behavior and a less aggressive turn shape, making it easier to drop your heels in broken snow and powder. .

In this regard, these skis are usually less suitable for the initial training of beginners in modern ski techniques than piste models. Beginners are very afraid of speed, and all-mountain skis provoke them to make turns with side slip and interfere with the consolidation of carving skills, which are considered basic in modern skiing technology. It is much easier to learn carving first and then master the “classics” than vice versa. My point is that generally good all-mountain skis are designed for at least intermediate and advanced skiers.

Turning radius

The turning radius is average, the most common radius is 15-16 meters. More than slalom skis, but less than giant slalom or freeride skis.

Rocker on all-mountain skis

Recently, rocker technology has been used on all skis (including carving skis). On all-mountain skis, it is also usually used to increase the cross-country ability, stability of the skis when riding on broken slopes, and the buoyancy of the skis when going into virgin soil.

What is the difference between rocker on all-mountain skis? The answer is simple: on all-mountain skis, the early tip lift zone is shorter than on freeride skis (usually does not exceed 300 mm, on freeride skis it easily reaches 500-700 mm) and the tip lift height is less than on freeride skis. Rocker on all-mountain skis can be either front (Tip Rocker) or double (Double Rocker), less often a low-profile full rocker is used (Full Rocker Low is used by Volkl in its All mountain skis).

What are all-mountain skis for?

By and large, All-mountain skis can be characterized in two words: skis are ideal for broken slopes (Cheget, Dombay, Alpine resorts after 13:00 Central European Time).

Freeride skis

Head of the Fischer Marketing Department Alexander Kaniovsky freeride in Saalbach.

Freeride- skiing or snowboarding outside of prepared trails and, as a rule, outside the service area of ​​the ski industry.

It is believed that it is when skiing on untouched snow that all the capabilities of alpine skiing and snowboarding are most fully revealed. At the same time, off-piste skiing also promises many dangers associated with unfamiliar terrain, for example, the possibility of avalanches. Beginners should not rush to go off-piste in the mountains; to do this, they should have certain skills in riding techniques.

Photos from the personal archive of Sergei Garibov.

Before you look at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.

How to choose alpine skis for the intended purpose

Carving or piste skis (Carving)

These skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes; they allow you to easily take sharp turns and ride using a carving technique - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with the help of which turns are made).

Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and allow for poor technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.

What to buy

Skis for professional racing (Racing)

These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). The models differ greatly in geometry and features, are designed for athletes and cost a lot.

What to buy

All-mountain skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)

These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin soil, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.

What to buy

Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)

These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin soil, and also allows you to jump off cliffs without compromising your health.

What to buy

Park skis, freestyle (Park & ​​Pipe, Freestyle)

These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, and for passing mogul tracks.

Often park skis are Twin-tip models with equally curved tip and tail. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a jump with both his back and face.

What to buy

Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, you need to take into account several parameters: length, rigidity and radius of the side cutout.

We will not consider skis for professional racing, since they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need recommendations. It’s better to focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced ones.

Alpine ski parameters

Length

The length of alpine skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.

• Carving, freestyle. To select the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
• Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
• Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be from -5 to +5 cm to your height.

Rigidity

Stiff skis allow you to develop high speeds without losing stability, including during turns. However, to ski hard skis, you need good technique.

Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional rigidity than all-mountain skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. If there is a lack of rigidity, you will not be able to make a clear turn: the skis will slip sideways.

The more weight, the stiffer the skis are needed to support it.

For beginners and amateurs, it will be more convenient to ride soft skis, such as all-mountain skis. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the harder the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.

As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated in the product card or on the ski tag.

Side cut radius

The radius of the sidecut (Sidecut) depends on the geometry of the ski. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will travel.

Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the skiing style. Slalom courses have a short radius of 9–12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with ratings of 17–25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.

There are also medium-radius skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis have better control when turning and, unlike long-radius skis, allow you to ski on rather tight, crowded slopes.

The radius of all-purpose skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.

Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.

Alpine ski designs

Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.

The core of such skis, as a rule, consists of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with a mesh of carbon or fiberglass.

The core is covered on the sides with plastic walls, on top with a decorative strip, and on the bottom with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and the shock absorption increases.

Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side or decorative strips, and the core is covered by one monolithic structure that extends to the edges.

Cap provides less weight and greater torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.

Monocoque (monocoque)

This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which the sliding surface is glued. A core made of wood or lightweight synthetic materials is installed inside the body.

Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures stability when turning and less sensitivity to uneven terrain.

In addition to these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made using one technology, and the ends - using another.

Alpine ski materials

Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, simple foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.

Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.

In cheaper skis you can find foam cores. For example, the Cap structure is filled with lightweight synthetic foam. Foam does not provide as much stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.

The next layer is a core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski largely depends on it. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.

Combined materials are also used in the production of sliding surfaces. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite helps reduce electrostatic charge, which causes small ice crystals and dirt to stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene provides better preservation of the ointment on the surface.

How to choose ski bindings

The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.

1. Fastening standard. There are several fastening standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:

• Alpine Mounts. Fits ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most piste boots.
• Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear parts are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example, uphill. Most of these bindings are ISO 9523 (Touring) compatible.
• WTR (Walk to Ride). Developed by Salomon. Mounts for boots with a higher WTR sole, equipped with a tread for comfortable walking.
• MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.

2. Elasticity of fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not come loose, but will return the boot to its place.

Carving ski bindings have little elasticity. It is enough to move the boot 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.

Freeride bindings are more flexible because they experience more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. In order for the freeride binding to come off, the boot must move to the side by 2.5–3 cm.

3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. It looks like two wires on the sides of the fasteners.

The waist (the narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the binding on your ski.

If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, select a ski mount only after choosing the skis themselves.

4. Features of fastening to the ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.

• With screws. This is the most reliable installation method. Cons: You won't be able to use multiple skis with one binding. In addition, the screws slightly disturb the structure of the skis, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
• On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a platform for bindings. In this case, it is better to buy fastenings from the same manufacturer: the holes in the platform will coincide with the fastenings and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
• On a platform without holes. If a platform without holes is attached to the ski, any fastenings will fit to it, since you will make the holes yourself.
• On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings can easily be changed to fit the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same skis.

How to choose poles

1. Material. Poles can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an alloy indication. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.

Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum ones, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a pole made of composite materials with a sharp ski edge, it will quickly break under load.

2. Shape. Poles for normal skating are straight. For high-speed descents, such as giant slalom, they are curved. This shape allows athletes to move the pole rings behind their backs during descent, increasing aerodynamics.

3. Ring size and shape. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed to prevent the stick from going deep into the snow. Freeride models have large guides to ensure the pole has a good grip on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skating are equipped with small rings that will not interfere or cling to your boots while skating.

Some manufacturers make poles with interchangeable rings for different riding conditions.

4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.

To find the ideal length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle is formed between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is suitable for you. Some experts advise adding 5–7 cm to this length to take into account the stick’s immersion in the snow.

Before choosing your poles, put on your ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.

As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick to the hand), it is not recommended to wear it. When you fall, the ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you're unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose poles without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.

What to buy

Ski boot parameters

To begin with, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will look at how to choose boots depending on your skiing style.

Rigidity

This characteristic indicates how much effort needs to be applied to change the angle of the boot shaft. The stiffer the boot, the better the forces of your muscles are transferred to the skis.

Soft boots absorb stress due to the bending of the shaft. As a result, ski control decreases.

The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to control your skis.

However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy boots that are too hard.

Sole type

ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.

Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel with ups and downs. These boots have a higher rubberized sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable overlays that allow them to be used with conventional bindings.

WTR (Walk to Ride)- This is a standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.

Pad width

Last width is the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the shoe, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.

There are boots with adjustable last width. They indicate a range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.

Remember: if you wear boots that are too wide, you will not be able to secure your feet well, so it will be difficult for you to control your skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy shoes that are too spacious.

Thermoforming

This is the boot's ability to mold to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.

In some boots, only the problem areas can be molded; in others, the entire surface of the boot is molded.

If your boots are marked Auto Fit, they are thermoformed as they are worn by the heat of your feet. A few days of riding is enough for boots with auto-forming to adapt to your characteristics.

Before buying boots, walk around the store in them for 10 minutes. This way you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, whether they need thermoforming or whether you should try on others.

Custom Fit shoes are designed to be hot molded using a special hairdryer. Hot molding is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits, but is a little tight in some place.

First, the boot is heated with a hairdryer for about 10–15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.

Insulation

Ski boots are insulated using down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.

Unlike natural materials, synthetic ones have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweat-soaked socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: cotton and wool are better left for other purposes.

How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose

These boots are suitable for you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and only for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and go beyond the boundaries of the track to ride on untouched snow.

Boots for carving come in different stiffnesses. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.

When choosing boots, do not look for softness and comfort: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis handle poorly, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.

The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to comfortably climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.