Gear shifters are widely used when riding both mountain and city bikes. A lot depends on their quality work: the pleasure of cycling, ride quality and even your safety. Before each cycling season, you need to check and, if necessary, adjust this mechanism correctly.
What parts help set up the speed switches?
A multi-speed mountain or city bike is equipped with several gears and gives new possibilities. It is much easier to conquer peaks, ride over uneven terrain, and even perform various tricks. To enjoy cycling, you need to set the gear selector correctly.
Those who first decided to figure out the switch mechanism on their own should first become familiar with the transmission parts and their functions.
The transmission is a set of bicycle parts that allows you to take on part of the cyclist's load. It also helps you ride on difficult surfaces, such as mountains.
We will not go into detail on each part of the bicycle. Let's look at just some of the elements that make up the transmission.
- The front derailleur helps the chain move along the drive sprockets of the system. Attached to the frame in the pedal area;
- The system is part of the front derailleur. It also consists of stars, different in diameter and number of teeth, which are attached to the connecting rods with special bolts;
The front derailleur is located in the pedal area
- The rear derailleur helps the chain move along the cassette sprockets. Located in the rear wheel area;
- cassette/ratchet - part of the rear derailleur. Consists of several stars, different in diameter and number of teeth. On expensive bicycles, the cassette is mounted on a drum. In cheap ones, there is a ratchet in place of the drum. The latter can also be observed on older bicycle models;
The rear derailleur is located on the rear wheel
- chain is a part of the transmission that must be periodically lubricated with special oils and washed;
The most reliable chains are matte gray. If the chain has a yellowish tint, this indicates its low quality. Nickel-plated chains are considered to be of average quality.
A bicycle chain is an important part of the transmission.
- shifters (or shifters) - a device with which the cyclist controls the gear change. When you press the shifter, the cable tension changes, causing the speed to change. It is mounted on the steering wheel, near the handles. The shifter on the right handle is responsible for the rear gear shift, and on the left - for the front. There are bicycles with one right-hand shifter;
Shifters are mounted on the steering wheel and are responsible for changing gears
- cables – parts that connect the shifters to the speed switches. A high-quality transition from one speed to another depends on the correct tension of the cable;
- shirt –
a rigid tube through which the cable passes. Attached to the frame.
The transmission cable connects the shifter to the shifter
Speed change mechanism
The operation of the rear and front derailleurs is as follows: if the cable is tensioned, the derailleur frame moves the chain to higher sprockets. If, on the contrary, you loosen the cable, the frame will throw the chain onto the smaller sprockets.
Speeds are switched using shifters (coins) located on the steering wheel. The rear derailleur is adjusted with the right shifter. This way the chain jumps between the rear sprockets. And the front derailleur is adjusted with a shifter on the left side. This is how the chain jumps among the front sprockets.
How the speed switch works - video
Gear shift types
Before making any adjustments, determine what kind of gear shift your bike has. There are 3 main types of switches.
- External switching mechanism.
- Internal switching mechanism.
- Combined type.
The internal gear shift mechanism appeared earlier than the external one. The progenitor of multi-speed hubs is the English company Sturmey-Archer. It was they who created the first two- and three-speed hubs, which were released in 1902.
Internal gear shifting on a mountain bike
The basis of this design is planetary bushings. This mechanism does not use cassettes. The transmission includes only 2 stars: front and rear. The entire mechanism is hidden inside. Usually there is no front gear selector either.
This mechanism is often found on road, touring, folding and city bikes. The system itself is located inside the rear planetary hub. This type of speed switch can be seen, for example, in the Forward Surf city bike (3 speed gears).
This mechanism is difficult to adjust for a non-professional. If necessary, it is better to contact a bicycle workshop.
External shifting on a speed bike
The external type belongs to most multi-speed bicycles. It is used on both mountain and city walking models. The mechanism consists of gear shifters and sprockets, forming a cassette or system. The speed is changed using the rear and front derailleurs.
This type of gear shift can be seen on both the Forward Dortmund city bike (7 speeds) and the Forward Agris mountain bike (24 speeds). This You can set the switch yourself by studying the mechanism.
The design of a bicycle chassis, principles of operation - video
Combined mechanism
The combined type is a combination of external and internal mechanisms. It is mounted on the rear wheel hub of the bicycle.
This mechanism is extremely rare, since it combines all the negative aspects of both the external and internal gear shift systems. It can only be configured by a professional.
Switch classification
In the modern world, there are many companies that create equipment for bicycles. The best quality models are made by corporations such as Shimano (Japan) and Sram (America), which produce entire lines of derailleurs.
Devices for professionals:
- Shimano XTR, Sram ESP 9.0 and Sram ESP X.0 take the lead in price and quality. They are mainly used in competition bikes. They are characterized by low weight of the structure.
- Shimano deore xt, Shimano Saint, Shimano slx took second place in the same category. Used in bicycles with 27 gears.
- Shimano Deore LX, Shimano Dura-Ace, Shimano Hone - third place. They are designed for devices with the maximum number of speeds.
Sports bike lines:
- Sram ESP 7.0 and Shimano Deore are similar designs. Made from very durable components and designed for 24 gears.
- Sram ESP 4.0, Sram ESP 5.0, Shimano Nexave and Shimano alivio are cheaper than the professional line. They support up to 24 speeds and are designed for touring bike models.
Line of switches for hobbyists:
- Sram ESP 4.0, Shimano C201 and Shimano acera are included with cheaper hybrids and entry-level mountain bikes. Can withstand up to 24 gears.
- Sram ESP 3.0, Shimano Nexus and Shimano altus are designed for recreational, city bikes.
- Shimano tourney is designed for a quiet, smooth ride. Carries 21 gears.
There is no fundamental difference in the adjustment and operation of different lines of switches from the same company. For example, different groups of Shimano derailleurs work the same and are interchangeable. Let’s say that the drive of eight-speed Alivio, Altus, Acera switches can be equipped with nine-speed systems Deore, Deore XT, Deore LX, XTR and vice versa.
The difference between devices in the Shimano line - video
What can affect the quality of switches?
It is important to find out what caused the problem.
Stretched cable
This defect is regulated by a drum on the shifter.
- When the chain moves silently and has difficulty jumping onto large sprockets, it means the cable has stretched. Rotate the drum clockwise until the part is tensioned to the desired position.
- If the chain does not want to go down onto small sprockets, loosen the cable by turning the drum counterclockwise.
- Check the operation of the speed switch. If necessary, tighten the drum further. Adjust until the chain begins to jump smoothly.
Broken cable
If a part is damaged, it must be replaced.
- Unscrew the fixing screw on the crossbar.
- Disassemble the shifter to remove the cable.
- Insert a new one, treat with special lubricant.
- Pass it through the shirts and set them in place.
- Secure the new cable to the derailleur.
Changing the cable on a bicycle - video
Parallelogram spring problems
For better performance of the return spring, you need to wash it. Then lubricate, after cleaning.
The rooster is bent or broken
If the rear derailleur tab is askew, it means the mount is bent. You can fix this defect yourself.
- Hold the foot with one hand and grab the switch with the other.
- Gently, without sudden movements, align the position of the rooster until the rear frame is level.
The rooster should be replaced with a new one as soon as possible. Even if you level it, such a part will not last long.
Switch deformation
A common cause of such a breakdown is a bicycle impact. Usually the rear derailleur suffers, the front derailleur is very difficult to bend. After a breakdown, it is worth checking exactly which parts have broken.
- If it's a frame, align it or change the part.
- If the screw that regulates the chain tension or the eye that secures this screw is broken, it is better to replace the parts. Otherwise, speeds will change very poorly.
Changing bicycle transmission parts - video
How to adjust the rear derailleur
The rear derailleur is a machine that transfers the chain from one sprocket of the rear wheel to another. Today, the vast majority of high-speed bicycles are equipped with such a switch.
The rear derailleur consists of the following elements.
- Switch frame. The number of bicycle speeds depends on its length.
- Two rollers that are responsible for directing the chain: a guide and a tensioner roller.
- The mechanism itself (parallelogram).
- Mounting bolt.
- Low gear limiter - screw labeled L.
- The top gear limiter is a screw labeled N.
- Cable guide groove.
- Tensioner adjustment screw.
Adjusting the rear derailleur is necessary if the mechanism is not working correctly, the chain is jumping over the required sprockets, the speed does not change, or you hear grinding or loud noises. You can set up the mechanism and debug its operation yourself. You will need a Phillips screwdriver and a #5 hex key.
First, make sure the derailleur is positioned vertically and parallel to the bike. If everything is in order, you can proceed to configuration. For convenience, turn the bike upside down, placing it on the saddle and handlebars, this will give access to the switch itself and the adjustment screws.
- First, lower the chain onto the smallest sprocket. Do this with the shifter on the right handle of the bicycle, it is responsible for the rear derailleur.
- Loosen the screw holding the cable. This is done in order to unlock the switch.
- Prepare a screwdriver and find the screw with the letter H on it.
- Move the switch so (adjust with screw H) so that the sprockets on which the chain rests (one sprocket on the cassette, two sprockets on the switch) are in the same plane, i.e., they form one line.
- Take the cable with your hand. It needs to be pulled out as much as possible and secured by tightening the screw.
- Check if the switch is working properly. If it does not move well to large stars, turn the wing counterclockwise, tensioning the cable.
- Now throw the chain onto the smallest sprocket using the shifters.
- Find the screw with the letter L.
- Change the position of the switch so that the largest star in the cassette lies in the same plane as the switch tab, forming an even line with it.
Setting the rear derailleur - video
Front Derailleur Adjustment
The front derailleur is less common than the rear derailleur. Bicycles with this device are cheaper. The front derailleur moves the chain along the system's sprockets. Moving from side to side, he pushes the chain onto the next sprocket.
Front derailleur device.
- Switch frame. A chain passes through it; this is the main element when changing gears. It moves to the sides in front of the front sprockets.
- The parallelogram is the mechanism itself (speed switch). Includes spring.
- Fastening to the frame.
- Upper limiter L.
- Lower limiter N.
- Cable fastening.
The main problem with the front derailleur is that the chain touches the frame when driving. You can fix this problem yourself.
Setting up the correct operation of the mechanism
- First, you need to set the front to the smallest star, and the rear to the maximum. To do this, rotate the pedals while pressing the shifter.
- Using a #5 hex, lower the screw holding the cable.
- Take a screwdriver and find screw L. Move the frame so that the distance from its inside to the chain is approximately 4 mm.
- Reattach the cable. To do this, pull it with your fingers and tighten the screw that presses against the cable.
- Now you need to adjust the second star. First, put the smallest sprocket on the rear derailleur, and move the front derailleur to the old one.
- See if the chain touches the outside of the frame. If the problem persists, tighten the cable further using the thumbwheel on the left shifter. Turn it counterclockwise until the chain is in the desired position. The distance from it to the frame should be approximately 3 mm.
- Go to the third star. If the chain touches the frame, then use a screwdriver to adjust screw H. You need to increase the gap by moving the frame outward.
Troubleshooting the front derailleur - video
How to change gears on any bike from Merida to ladies' model
To ride easily and comfortably, with less effort, you need to change the speed correctly.
- When you hear extraneous sounds when changing gears, the transmission has not worked. You need to press the shifter lever.
- If you decide to conquer the peak, use the rear derailleur.
- It is better to change gear before you start climbing a hill.
- Change gears while moving and do not jump over several stars at once.
- When changing speed, ease the pressure on the pedals. This way the switching will happen smoothly and correctly.
How to change speeds correctly - video
If you carry out preventive maintenance on the operation of the gear selector before each cycling season, then problems associated with the transmission will be reduced to a minimum. It’s very unpleasant when a mechanism malfunctions along the way. And setting up the speed switch yourself and troubleshooting problems is easy even for a beginner.
We tell you how to make your budget mountain bike more reliable, more comfortable and sportier.
Modern budget bikes have become much more reliable and comfortable, but there are still a number of tweaks that can make your bike the best in the segment. Nowadays it’s easy to buy a bike and immediately go to the nearest park to conquer the trail paths, and you will get what you expected, but there will always be room for improvement and upgrade. If you touch a new bike, you will need a number of personal settings, which we will tell you about. And after all this, the question of regular maintenance remains.
If you're new to the world of mountain biking, the following set-up and maintenance tips will help keep your bike in top running condition and save you money.
Adjust the speed switches
Inexpensive bikes come with entry-level shifters that aren't always fast or smooth, but should at least operate smoothly and without any chain slippage. If the derailleur isn't keeping the chain in the right gear, you'll need to adjust them. Adjust the derailleurs and limiters, or take them to your nearest bicycle repair shop. Often, poor gear shifting is due to the fact that the switch drive cables clogged with mud, or bent, and the cable simply cannot move freely inside (1).
Also, unclear gear shifting may be due to a bent (2) rear derailleur. It's very easy to bend the cock: just fall off the bike, or put it on the right side (on which the speed switches are attached). Often, a bent rooster is the result of unsafe transportation. That is why the cages for the rear derailleurs have a removable design, so that in case of deformation, you do not have to change the expensive frame, but only change (straighten) the cage. If you have a bent cock, you should contact a bicycle repair shop to straighten it or replace it.
Adjust or replace the saddle
A standard saddle and its installation during pre-sale assembly in a store are not always correct. The shape, position and height of the saddle are highly individual. What is comfortable for one person is not necessarily comfortable for another. If the saddle feels uncomfortable, try adjusting its position and height, or go to your local bike shop for a new saddle. A comfortable saddle doesn't have to be expensive. Some stores may offer a "try before you buy" service.
This is especially true for women who use men's (universal) bicycle models. Men's and women's saddles are very different, this is due to the physiology of men and women. Women find wider saddles with additional comfort inserts more comfortable. Modern women's saddles are designed in such a way that they leave the necessary freedom of movement, providing excellent comfort during prolonged use.
Get rid of plastic pedals
Most entry-level mountain bikes come with simple plastic pedals. This is because pedals are an individual accessory that depends on your preferences. For example, some use platform pedals, while others use contact pedals. Thus, the bicycle manufacturer assumes that you will soon change the pedals to suit your riding style. By the way, this is why all expensive bicycles are sold without pedals.
If your bike has cheap plastic pedals, invest in new, durable platform pedals, or clipless pedals with cycling shoes. This will significantly improve your bike control level.
Replace grips with good ones
Check the chain after every ride
Inexpensive bicycles are equipped with a transmission with minimal corrosion protection. To prevent premature wear, it is important to keep the chain clean and lubricated. The more you ride in dirty conditions, the more maintenance your transmission will require. Use special cleaning products to clean the chain of old lubricant - degreasers (4). We have collected recommendations for lubrication and maintenance of a bicycle chain.
Update the eccentrics
Budget bikes often use cheap ones (5), which can easily fail without constant checks and maintenance. We won’t scare you about the consequences of a broken eccentric while riding. Just check the eccentrics and regularly lubricate the rubbing mechanisms. But it would be best to replace cheap eccentrics with high-quality ones.
Keep dusters clean
All shock absorbers, bushings and rotating joints run on lubricant. To prevent dirt from getting inside the shock absorbers and bearings, sealing boots are used. While riding a bicycle, dust and dirt accumulate on the working surface of the mechanisms, around the anthers. If the seals are not cleaned, dirt can get inside the shock absorbers and bushings, causing damage to the working surfaces and ultimately failure of the entire part.
Regularly clean the working surface of the suspension fork legs from dust and dirt, and also clean accumulated dirt around the O-rings and boots. Use durable silicone-based spray lubricants to protect the surface and improve glide.
Don't skimp on maintenance
If you want to get the most out of your bike, don't skimp on regular maintenance. Increased wear and tear are often associated with simple neglect and savings on maintenance. Most problems can be prevented by periodically inspecting the condition of the bicycle and correcting any problems found. Every year, contact a professional bicycle repair shop for comprehensive maintenance, regularly check the condition of the bicycle, and before each ride, check the tire pressure, brake and shock absorber operation, and gear shifting. Find out more about the need for bike maintenance and recommended timings.
Understand that even if your bike is inexpensive, this does not mean that you will enjoy using it any less. As long as the bike works well, it's always a great pleasure.
Terms in the article
(1) Shirt(cable) is a multi-layer braided cable with high longitudinal compression resistance, used for mechanical drive of speed switches and brakes.
(2) Rooster(rear derailleur) - this is the attachment of the rear derailleur to the bicycle frame. Typically, the cock is a separate part that is easy (and inexpensive) to replace.
(3) Grips(handlebars) - handles with a soft and/or rubberized surface that fit on the handlebars and provide comfortable, safe and reliable control of the bicycle in any conditions.
(4) Degreaser- a product that removes old grease and dirt. Often used for bicycle transmission.
(5) Eccentric(axle) - a mechanism with a lever for quick installation (dismantling) of a bicycle wheel.
Photo gallery
Even if your bike is inexpensive, this does not mean that you will enjoy using it any less. As long as the bike works well, it's always a great pleasure. Photo (Colin Levitch/Immediate Media)
Inexpensive bikes come with entry-level shifters that aren't always fast or smooth, but should at least operate smoothly and without any chain slippage. Photo (Colin Levitch/Immediate Media)
What most often raises questions when setting up and selecting components? Let's look at it below
- Brake levers and shifters
- Tires and tire pressure
- Stem length and position
- Saddle position
- Video
Brake levers and shifters
We recently published a whole article on our website about adjusting brake levers on a mountain bike. The most important thing is to turn the handles to a comfortable angle and brake with one finger. This is the key to safe and comfortable braking. The shifter should not interfere with your thumb, but it should not be too far from the steering wheel so that you don’t have to reach for it. Brakes and shifters are the main controls of a bicycle, and they are definitely worth taking the time to set up!
Usually, a bicycle from a store has the cheapest plastic pedals installed, or there are no pedals at all, so you will either have to buy them in addition or soon replace them due to breakdown. Which ones to choose? The two main types are contacts and platforms. In contact pedals, the foot is fixed and therefore we do not recommend their use if you have little experience riding bicycles. First you need to master basic control skills: braking, cornering and obstacles, bunny hop, wheelie and stoppie. All this is best learned on flat pedals. They come in different types, but it is best to choose pedals with a large surface area and cleats for better grip.
Tires and tire pressure
Tires should be selected based on the surface you drive on. If you mainly ride around the city, then you hardly need heavy mud tires with a large projector. In this case, replacing tires with lighter and more rolling tires will make your ride much easier and increase comfort.
If you frequently puncture your tires on rocks or curbs, you may be inflating your tires too little. Increasing the pressure will increase resistance to breakdowns and improve rolling on a flat road. Wheels that are too inflated will be very hard and any unevenness will cause discomfort.
Stem length and position
When purchased in a store, the steering wheel is usually in the highest position. You can try different positions of the stem: adjust the height using spacer rings; in extreme cases, you can turn the stem over and get the lowest possible position. This position and a long stem (more than 90 mm) may be required in cross-country for comfortable climbing. In downhill racing the stems are much shorter and can stand higher.
Saddle position
The height of the saddle for everyday riding should be set so that the leg in the lower position on the pedal is almost straightened. The angle of the saddle usually corresponds to the horizon, but in different riding styles it can change for convenience. The saddle shift along the rails is selected based on your seating position and the distance to the handlebars.
Video
Great video that goes into more detail about mistakes in bike setup
If you have already chosen and even bought a new bike, then all you have to do is set it up for a comfortable ride. To do this, it is not at all necessary to contact professionals; it is quite possible to perform the necessary adjustments yourself. Use our tips on how to set up your bike and you'll be enjoying rides on your brand new bike in no time!
Steering wheel adjustment.
The handling of a bicycle depends on the correct position of the steering wheel. The steering wheel is considered correctly adjusted if the cyclist’s hands, elbows, back and neck do not strain or become stiff when riding in a comfortable position. To achieve this, you need to adjust the height of the steering wheel and its tilt, adhering to the following rules:
- On a road bike, the handlebars should be at an angle of about 90 degrees. To do this, it must be installed directly above the front hub (the central part of the front wheel).
- On a mountain bike, the handlebar angle is 45 degrees, in which case it is mounted an inch (2.54 cm) in front of the hub.
- The height of the handlebars for a road bike is adjusted 3 inches above the level of the saddle, and for a mountain bike it is 4 inches lower.
Adjusting the saddle.
It is impossible to adjust a speed bike without adjusting the saddle position. Only by positioning it correctly will you be able to feel comfortable while riding, it will be easier for you to start moving, get on and get up from the bike. The following parameters are adjustable:
- Saddle height. To determine the desired position, you need to sit on the bike, put your foot on the pedal and move it to the lowest point. The leg should reach the pedal freely, but be fully straightened.
- Tilt angle. The saddle is positioned parallel to the ground or tilted no more than 3 degrees to one side or the other.
Adjusting the brakes.
Incorrect brake adjustment is a direct path to losing control of the bike and increasing the likelihood of an accident. To set up the brakes on a bicycle, you must first determine their type - disc or rim. The next step is to check the functionality of the braking system while idling. Usually, after such a check, you have to tighten the cable so that when you press the brake lever it does not touch the steering wheel. For disc brakes, this is usually sufficient. Adjusting rim brakes may include adjusting the pads: they are installed symmetrically, parallel to the rim and at a distance of 1 mm from it.
Setting up speed switches.
The question of how to set the speed switch on a bicycle arises for the vast majority of lovers of two-wheeled transport. Modern bike models are equipped with two switches - front and rear. To configure them, you need to:
- install the chain on the smallest sprocket at the front and the largest at the rear;
- rotate the screw, setting the position of the frame in such a way that the chain will be located as close as possible to the inner plate, without touching the frame when rotating the pedals;
- move the chain to the smallest rear and largest front sprocket;
- rotate the other screw, setting the frame in a position in which the chain will be located as close as possible to the outer plate, without touching the frame when rotating the pedals.
To finally adjust the front derailleur, its tab must be installed 2-3 mm above the chain and the cable tension must be adjusted. Adjusting the rear derailleur begins by placing the chain on the largest sprocket. It should move down one click at a time. If this does not happen, you need to slightly loosen the cable by turning the drum clockwise. You'll know you've got your bike's shifting dialed in when the chain moves smoothly and quickly up and down the sprockets on both the front and rear.
As a rule, this is where the bike adjustment ends. All that remains is to pump up the tires, and you can go for a walk or a trip out of town. If you have any additional questions - how to adjust the speedometer or fork of a bicycle, how to properly care for the bike or any others - you can always contact specialists for additional advice.
The bicycles offered in the store are adjusted for the average person. But customizing the bike is still necessary. By adjusting the position of the saddle, handlebars and other elements, you will not only ensure a comfortable and safe ride.
Not tuning up your bike causes pain in your knees, back and neck. Therefore, many drivers cannot drive for a long time.
Sometimes pain in muscles and joints is caused by a lack of proper physical training. But most often the key to solving the problem lies in the calibration of the bike.
Saddle
The first thing you need to adjust before you get on the bike is the saddle. It is necessary to regulate:
- Height;
- Incline;
- Reach in the horizontal plane.
Moreover, depending on the person, the type of bicycle and riding characteristics, these indicators will vary.
Height
The main rule for any type of bicycle when adjusting the saddle height is that in the bottom position of the pedal the leg is almost straight.
There should be minimal bending at the knee, but do not allow the leg to be fully extended.
With this in mind, remember that the front of your foot should be on the pedal, not your center or heel.
When adjusting the height, remember that your body should not sway as you pedal.
Bicycles, scooters, components
If you have to waddle from side to side to turn the pedal, lower the saddle 1-2 cm.
Another criterion is the placement of the foot on the ground. With an optimal saddle height, you won't have to lean the bike unnecessarily to get one foot on the road. If all three of the above factors are present on your bike, you have adjusted the saddle height.
This position allows the cyclist to expend less effort when riding and gain speed faster.
Keeping your knees slightly bent at the bottom of the pedals will prevent and ensure a comfortable and long ride.
Position
If the saddle height is universal for all types of bicycles, then its position may differ.
First, let's discuss the angle of inclination. For normal riding, it is better to use a horizontal saddle position.
This is especially true for men, since due to physiology, tilting the seat can cut off blood circulation and pinch important organs.
If we talk about the types of seats, there are special saddles for men with a notch in the central part. They are usually narrower than the women's versions. Therefore, take this factor into account when choosing a bike.
It is better to purchase a comfortable seat separately from the iron horse.
If you are going uphill, it is better to tilt the seat with the front part down. This will provide a more comfortable climb and reduce energy loss. When performing tricks, the saddle must be tilted back.
Many modern seats have rails in their design, with which the saddle can be moved in a horizontal plane.
Before determining the optimal reach, it is necessary to understand the peculiarities of the cyclist’s seating position on various types of bikes.
On mountain bikes, the rider's body must be tilted at 45 degrees, while on road bikes, the rider "lays" the body almost 90 degrees.
This is important to consider when adjusting the seat reach. A combination of handlebar and seat adjustments ensures a comfortable riding position, so don't settle for just adjusting the saddle.
It is important to remember that if the seat is pushed back too far, the weight will shift towards the rear wheel.
This shift in the center of gravity unloads the front shock absorber and can create the risk of an accident or rollover.
And too close a position will cause inconvenience when rotating the pedals. In addition, in both cases you will experience discomfort in your shoulders, neck and back.
Therefore, adjust the reach wisely, based on your height, shape and riding characteristics.
Experiment! Set your saddle position and ride a few times. If you feel uncomfortable, keep changing the settings.
Steering wheel
As mentioned above, by combining handlebar and saddle settings, we achieve the optimal riding position for the cyclist. And depending on the type of bike it can be different.
Handlebar height
The comfort and efficiency of shock absorbers depends on the height of the steering wheel. If the handlebars are too high, the cyclist will sit almost upright.
This will shift the center of gravity toward the saddle and reduce the load on the handlebars, which will reduce the effectiveness of the front shock absorber. Although for beginners it is better to raise the steering wheel slightly above the seat level.
On city bikes, the handlebars are located at the same level as the saddle, while for road models the handlebar height is lower. This is due to the position of the rider's torso when riding.
The almost 90-degree tilt, which provides low air resistance and high speed, is achieved through the correct combination of handlebar and saddle level.
The main rule for mountain bikes is that the rider's arms are bent at approximately 45 degrees at the elbows.
This will ensure effective operation of the shock absorbers and reduce discomfort from vibrations transmitted to the hands.
Takeaway
To properly adjust the handlebar stem on a mountain bike, experienced cyclists use the following rule:
- Rest your elbow on the edge of the front of the saddle;
- Extend your hand with straight fingers towards the steering wheel;
- Position the handlebars so that your fingertips are in the middle of the stem.
Otherwise, adjust the handlebars and saddle to suit you in such a way that it is comfortable for you with your build and height to ride a bicycle.
Be aware of the rules that apply to different types of bikes and proper weight distribution.
Grips
An important point when adjusting the steering wheel is the position of the grips and brake levers. During long trips, some drivers rub their thumb on the shifters.
To avoid discomfort, loosen the instruments on the steering wheel and move them to a distance convenient for you, if the design of the steering wheel allows this.
But don’t overdo it, so that in a critical situation you can quickly apply the brakes without wasting precious seconds.
Keep in mind that the closer your hands are to the center of the steering wheel, the more difficult it is to control the unit. Therefore, place devices at a reasonable distance.
Finally, I would like to note that in order to customize the bike for yourself, you need to make two or three “forays”. This will help ensure that the settings are correct.